If you grew up asking your hairdresser for 'all back', 'Bob Marley' or 'one million', you might be a little confused by today's salon vocabulary. Somewhere along the line, social media entered the beauty industry, Gen Z joined the conversation, and getting your hair done started sounding like its own trend report.
Today, you can walk into a salon asking for 'Tyla braids', 'Jayda Wayda' or 'lemonade braids', and somehow, everybody is expected to know exactly what you mean. If they don’t, you should have a picture or video of what you want.
But then, how many of these styles are genuinely new?
Let's take a trip down memory lane.
Packing Gel vs Ponytail
Looking at the iconic ‘packing gel’, for instance. Back then… and even now, it was the top choice for your hair when it is your graduation, your birthday or a party you wish to attend. It is the ‘I don arrive’ hairstyle we did growing up. The same slicked-back hair with the same gel is now commonly described as a ‘sleek ponytail.’ This time, it has more dramatic edges and a variety of extensions coming into play.
Weave-on/Fixing vs Sew-in
The same goes for ‘weave-on’ or ‘fixing’, now widely recognised as a ‘sew-in’. The needle, thread and hours spent sitting in the salon remain, but the new terminology sounds like something you'd book an appointment for in a luxury hair studio so that your transformation is flawless.
Rihanna/Skull Cap vs Pixie Cut
Short hair isn’t out of the picture either. What we called ‘Rihanna’ or ‘skull cap’ helped make the edgy, cropped look so fabulous. But now, ‘pixie cut’ is the polished name for a style that can transform your entire face and your confidence.
One million braids vs Micro braids
Then there's ‘one million braids’, they are so tiny and many that Nigerians unanimously agreed to call it a million. It would take forever to install and even longer to take out… and yes, either process could take days. Somehow, a name without a number has been given to the hairstyle. The more technical-sounding “micro braids” makes the same painstaking style easier to search on Pinterest.
Bob Marley vs Box braids
‘Bob Marley’ has also become ‘box braids’ in this new era. The familiar protective style has become a global favourite, with your favourite celebrities and influencers wearing it in different lengths, sizes and colours. But for many Nigerians, “Bob Marley” still brings back memories of a hairstyle that could take an entire afternoon and equally test your patience.
All back vs Cornrows
If we are talking about a hairstyle that has been with us in our highs and lows, we are definitely talking about ‘all back’... or should it be called ‘cornrows’ now? For school, church or when there was no time for anything complicated, all back was always available. Now, even cornrows can come with intricate parts, creative patterns and celebrity-inspired designs. The simple style has entered its experimental era… and we are here for it.
Ṣuku vs Braided Ponytail
Some names carry a little more history. ‘Ṣuku,’ has long been part of traditional Nigerian hairstyling, with variations across communities and generations. But it is no surprise to now describe it as a ‘braided ponytail.’ A familiar traditional style sounds like a trendy look straight from your favourite beauty influencer's page.
Sade vs Fulani braids/Babyface
‘Sade Adu’ or ‘Sade’ evokes the renowned singer's signature braided look. Today, similar styles featuring delicate braids framing the face are often described using terms such as ‘Fulani braids’ or ‘babyface braids.’ This eventually inspired the popular Jayda Wayda braids, which is a much faster alternative. The exact styles can differ, but the face-framing effect remains a go-to favourite.
Police cap vs Lemonade braids
Do you remember the style ‘police cap ’? The side-swept cornrow patterns are now widely associated with ‘lemonade braids’, popularised internationally by Beyoncé's Lemonade album era. Beyoncé may have popularised the international reference while using the style in her music videos, but the salon vocabulary was already alive.
Patewo vs Mohawk braids
Meanwhile, ‘patewo’, named after the Yoruba word associated with clapping, can resemble some centre-focused braided designs described as ‘mohawk braids.’ Mohawk braids generally describe styles where the hair is concentrated along the centre of the head. Depending on the exact design, the two can overlap, but they are not always identical. Either way, the style has always had an attitude.
Of course, these names are not always exact equivalents. Hairstyles evolve, and some viral styles have distinct patterns, techniques or celebrity influences. Social media has simply made it easier for a look to travel across borders and acquire a new name along the way.
But we cannot overlook an important question.
Has the rebranding affected how much we pay?
Remember when all back was the affordable, no-stress option? Now, you could ask for cornrows and be met with questions about the number of lines, the parting pattern and whether you want a particular finish. Before you know it, your simple hairstyle has become a design project with a price to match.
If you ask for a celebrity-inspired look, the stylist may need more time, materials or skill to recreate it. Sometimes, the higher price is justified by the work involved. Other times, you may simply need to clarify exactly what the stylist means by the name.
So, did Gen Z invent new names for hair?
Not exactly.
But it would be unfair to say every new name is simply an old Nigerian hairstyle with a fresh label. Some styles have genuine differences in their patterns, techniques, origins or finishes. Others have existed in African communities long before they became trending topics online.
What social media has undeniably changed is how quickly a hairstyle can become popular and how quickly its name can travel.
But one thing is certain: the next time someone says that she wants to make 'Bob Marley', don't be surprised if the hairstylist asks whether she means box braids.
Just make sure you ask for the price before asking for the 'Tyla braids'. Because in today's salon economy, you might be paying for the hairstyle, the celebrity inspiration and most importantly, the rebranding.
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